Dermatologists let us in on how to safely dry gel polish.
There's nothing like the satisfaction of getting a fresh gel manicure. Less satisfying? Having to wait for your nails to dry. Fortunately, a UV lamp helps speed up the process while also setting your polish. However, the concern is that these lamps — including the ones that claim to be LED-only — can potentially cause skin damage. To find out more, we spoke with two dermatologists who are experts on the matter. Electric Nail Drill
Keep scrolling to discover the effects of UV light on nails, plus, how to protect your skin the next time you head to the salon.
"The light boxes at nail salons used to set nail polish emit UVA light, which is associated with causing damage to your skin," explains Dr. Stacy Chimento.
More specifically, Dr. Chimento explains that "UVA radiation can lead to premature wrinkles, age spots, and in extreme cases, skin cancer." She also adds that the problem with the LED lamps (which you may have seen marketed as "better for you") is that they can radiate light that's on the UVA spectrum, which still poses risks of photo-aging.
It may not be the equivalent of sitting out in the sun unprotected, however, it's still important to exercise some caution when exposing yourself to a UV lamp, says Dr. Kavita Mariwalla.
"Although a weekly or twice a month gel manicure in and of itself likely won't cause skin cancer, if you are a regular and have been doing it for years and years then I think you may notice more freckling on your hands," she notes. "It is certainly not the same as going in a tanning bed, however."
While gel nails may last much longer and be more durable than traditional polish, both Dr. Chimento and Dr. Mariwalla are wary about the process.
"I think gel manicures and artificial nails in general are not very healthy for your natural nails," says Dr. Mariwalla. "To the extent that those practices then cause you to put your hands under the lights, it becomes a bit of a not-so-healthy-all-the-time kind of habit." Getting gel manicures regularly can result in the skin on your hands aging faster and losing its elasticity more quickly than it normally would, she adds.
Dr. Chimento points out that the acetone that is typically used in manicures can also cause your skin to dry out, making it all the more sensitive to UV rays. "If you take certain medications like doxycycline, you can increase your chances of burning your skin and separating the nail from the bed when combined with light," says Dr. Chimento.
Fortunately, the lamp itself won't cause harm to your nails — but the polish might. When drying your manicure with a UV lamp, your nails are protected thanks to the thick coat of gel polish, Dr. Mariwalla tells us. "So in that sense, I don't think those lamps damage the nails per se," she says. "But the actual gel and the acrylics certainly lead to thinning nail plates and can lead to nail infections and nail lifting if water gets underneath."
VIDEO: Here's How to Remove Gel Polish at Home
While Dr. Chimento notes that applying an SPF 30 sunscreen at least 20 minutes before placing your hands under the lamp would be effective, UV gloves would be a good alternative if you wanted to forgo slathering up before your mani.
"I think UV gloves with fingertip cutouts are great as is using sunscreen," says Dr. Mariwalla. "Using protection on your hands will prevent damage from happening to your skin."
Just remember that at the end of the day, you're still exposing your hands to UV rays repeatedly when you go in for gel manicures. So go ahead and think about either SPF, gloves, or limiting your gel manis to special occasions.
One isn't necessarily better for gel nails than the other. Both LED lamps and UV lamps emit UVA rays, which can lead to premature signs of aging. However, keep in mind that UV lamps will dry all types of gel polish while LED lamps are limited to drying only specific LED light gel polishes.
Yes. The UV rays help the gel polish polymerize, or harden, which is what makes the formula so durable, and dry so quickly.
It's not recommended to use a UV lamp to dry regular polish. Instead, a non-gel manicure can be dried by using a heat lamp with a small fan.
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